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spyder

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Posts posted by spyder

  1. Θα την εφαρμόσουν...τα mods θα συνεχίσουν να υπάρχουν

    Quote

    It is indeed massive news and hopefully over the coming weeks ISI/Studio-397 can provide a breakdown of what the short term / long term goals of the deal are aside from the headlines such as dx11 etc or offer a open Q&A session. Obviously with this partnership/merger the rf2 product will have to change and provide longer term income (something rf2 does not currently do) such as paid DLC, will modding remain open, will we see more of a web hub to support racing (think iRacing).

    It's certainly a interesting time for the rF2 product and look forward to seeing what the road holds for all.

    http://isiforums.net/f/showthread.php/29773-rFactor-2-Armed-with-a-BIG-Announcement-for-Simracing-Expo?p=433876&viewfull=1#post433876

    • Upvote 1
  2. Quote

    The new partnership plans to release an ambitious roadmap for rFactor 2’s further development shortly; initial plans include improvements to the user interface, a DX11 based graphics engine including VR support and new propositions for strategic partners by the end of 2016, as well as increasing the frequency of new car and track releases.

    ISI announces a partnership with Luminis on rFactor 2 developement

    https://www.luminis.eu/blog/rfactor-2-gets-boost-isi-announce-partnership-luminis/

    https://www.studio-397.com/

    Ευχάριστα νέα, νέο μενού, γραφικά DX11 και υποστήριξη VR μέχρι το τέλος του 2016 :oregonian_winesmiley:

    • Upvote 3
  3. Θα μπώ το βράδυ εκτός απροόπτου

    Εχω κατεβάσει την v2.02 αλλά βλέπω στο σερβερ v1.0, απο steam την v1.0? Υπάρχει πασσγουωρντ στο σερβερ?

  4. Πως στρίβουμε http://www.saskkartclub.com/Docs/Karting-Basic Driving Techniques-Cornering.pdf

    768px-Racing_Line_showing_earlier_and_la

    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Racing_line

     

    Simple Car Set Up Guide

     

    oversteer - υπερστροφή, όταν φεύγει το πίσω μέρος

    understeer - υποστροφή, όταν φεύγει το μπροστινό

     

    Front Damper Fast Bump:  (oversteer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(understeer)

    A softer setting means more grip when steering,which is good  
    for tighter tracks.A stiffer setting will increase understeer,a  
    softer setting will increase oversteer.

     

    Front Damper Slow Bump:  (understeer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(oversteer)

    A stiffer setting will make the car feel snappier,though it will  
    also be more unstable.Use stiffer settings to increase oversteer  
    and to  make the car turn more sharply.

     

    Front Damper Fast Rebound:  (oversteer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(understeer)

    Adjusts how quickly the front wheels return to a steady state  
    over bumps .Stiffening the front will result in less oversteer  
    over bumps and kerbs.

     

    Front Damper Slow Rebound:  (oversteer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(understeer)

    Adjusts how quickly the front of the chassis sets into a corner.  
    Stiffing the front will result in less oversteer in turn-in and  
    corner exits.

     

    Rear Damper Fast Bump:  (oversteer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(understeer)

    A softer setting means more grip when steering,which is good  
    for tighter tracks.Set it stiffer to increase understear,or to  
    make the car turn less sharply on faster tracks.

     

    Rear Damper Slow Bump:  (understeer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(oversteer)

    The stiffer the setting,the snappier and tighter the car will  
    feel,though it will be more unstable.Use stiffer settings to  
    increase oversteer,or to make the car turn more sharply.

     

    Rear Damper Fast Rebound:  (understeer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(oversteer)

    Adjust how quickly the rear wheels return to a steady state  
    over bumps .Stiffing the rear will result in more oversteer over  
    bumps and kerbs.

     

    Rear Damper Slow Rebound:  (understeer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(oversteer)

    Adjust how quickly the rear of the chassis sets into a corner.  
    Stiffing the rear will result in more oversteer in turn-in and  
    corner exits.

     

    Front Sway Bar:  (oversteer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(understeer)

    Increase stiffness to reduce body roll.Too much stiffness can  
    cause the inside wheels to lift off the ground during cornering.

     

    Rear Sway Bar:  (understeer) Softer - <> + Stiffer(oversteer)

    Increase stiffness to reduce body roll.Too much stiffness can  
    cause the inside wheels to lift off the ground during cornering.

     

    Front/Rear Spring Rate:

    Determines the softness or hardness of the suspension  
    springs .Stiffer springs will improve car responsiveness.  
    Excessively stiff springs will cause the wheel to lose contact  
    with the ground in rough sections .A softer rear spring setting  
    can also add in rear wheel traction accelerating out of corners  
    for rear wheel drive cars.

     

    Stance:

    Lowering the ride height lowers the center of gravity and  
    increases overall stability.Too low a ride height can cause the  
    suspension to bottom out.Also a lower ride height can give better  
    aero dynamic characteristics resulting in higher top speed.

     

    Front Ride Height:

    Allows lowering or raising of the front height to adjust rake  
    and total travel before bottoming .A higher front ride height  
    will aid acceleration and braking.Rear wheel drive cars can  
    generally benefit from less forward rake more than front wheel  
    drive cars.

     

    Rear Ride Height:

    Slightly higher rear ride height than the front creates a slight  
    forward rake,witch means more grip when cornering.You  
    generally see front wheel drive cars with more forward rake.

     

    Steering lock:

    Adjust the steering lock maximum.Use higher lock for more  
    responsive steering.So more lock works for tracks with tighter  
    corners.

     

    Castor Angle:

    Most cars are not particularly sensitive to caster settings,but  
    used in conjunction with other settings,a more positive value  
    can aid straight line driving,wile a less positive one can make  
    your car react quicker to steering .A lower castor angle can  
    really be helpful in turning through a tight corner quicker.

     

    Front/Rear Toe Angle:

    Adjusts the horizontal angle of the front wheels.Toe-in creates  
    better straight line stability,but sacrifices responsivness.Toe-
    out improves responsiveness,but sacrifices straight line  
    stability.Set up the front with negative to (toe-out)and rear  
    with positive(toe-in).Large amounts of rear toe-in can help in  
    acceleration out of corners for rear wheel drive cars.High toe-
    out in the front can help the car turn through a corner  
    better.High toe settings both front and rear can build  
    excessive tire heat and also limit top end speed.

     

    Front/Rear Camber:

    Adjust the vertical angle of the wheel. Increasing negative  
    camber can increase cornering,but impair acceleration and  
    braking .Adjust camber settings so that tire heat is evenly  
    distributed across the tire at the apex of the turn.You should  
    try to strike a good balance for the majority of the corners of  
    any given track .I have generally found most people set there  
    cars up with way to much negative camber. I find around  
    negative 2.4-3.0 in the front and 1.5-2.5 in the rear works  
    well for most cars .I like to run somewhat low camber for rear  
    wheel drive cars in the rear.It can help with accelerating out of  
    corners since there is more tire in contact with the pavment.

     

    Front Tire Pressure:

    To deal with understeer,decrease front tire pressures.  
    Understeer is when the front end wants to run wide in a  
    turn.Set tire pressure too high or too low though and you'll  
    lose overall grip and generate excessive tire heat.

     

    Rear Tire Pressure:

    To reduce oversteer,decrease rear tire pressure.Oversteer is  
    when the back end of the car tends to slide to the outside of a  
    corner under strong steering.As with front tire settings,set this  
    too high or too low and you'll lose overall grip and generate  
    excessive tire heat.

     

    Brake Pressure:

    Adjusts the total applied brake pressure.Less brake pressure  
    will reduce the tendency to lock up the brakes,but will  
    increase your stopping distance .I find reducing pressure on  
    front wheel drive cars to around 70 percent reduces the  
    tendency for the back end to swing out under braking into a  
    corner.Also formula cars tend to need a reduced pressure setting  
    to combat locking the brakes so easy.

     

    Acceleration lock:

    Adjust's the L.S.D (limited slip differential) lock under  
    acceleration .Higher settings(more slip before full  
    engagement) give better traction coming out of corners,but  
    will limit your ability to turn. Lower settings will make it  
    easier to turn,especially in tight corners,but give you less  
    traction.Note this setting in most sims is somewhat confusing.
    In most sims they usually call it the power setting.You must lower  
    this setting in the garage to give you the effect of a higher  
    L.S.D slip setting.

     

    Deceleration Lock:

    Adjusts the  L.S.D lock under deceleration (coast).High settings  
    make you more stable decelerating into a corner,but limit the  
    car's ability to turn. Lower settings reduce stability when  
    decelerating into a corner,but improve turning ability.Very low  
    coast settings will make it very easy to spin out decelerating  
    into a corner but will help slow you down faster if you use it  
    right.I like to lower my coast until I start to have problems  
    with spinning out into a corner and then raise it back a bit so I  
    strike a nice balance of stability and deceleration effect.

     

    Preload:

    Adjust the amount of built in lock before any acceleration or  
    deceleration effects take place,as in a neutral throttle  
    condition.This setting will effect how quickly the transition  
    from acceleration to deceleration lock occurs. Lower settings  
    improves maneuverability,higher settings reduce it.

     

    Putting it all into practice:

    Car setup is not an exact science.What works for one may not  
    work for another because everyone likes there cars to feel and  
    drive a certain way.If you want to really start to lower those lap  
    times you must first figure out how you like your cars to  
    handle,and what best suits you skill level.Once you know  
    exactly what you are going for then you can start to apply this  
    information to your setups and truly have a car that is set up  
    perfectly for you.

     

     

    AC%20settings_zpshhrjm1ig.jpg

    • Upvote 2
  5. 1 hour ago, gchristod said:

     

    @spyder πρωτες εντυπωσεις?

    Καλό φαίνεται, μικρό βαθμό δυσκολίας οπότε δεν χρειάζετε πολυήμερα practice, βουτάς κατευθείαν στον αγώνα που δίνει ωραίες μάχες απο'τι κατάλαβα χθές.

  6. Εβαλα αυτές τις ρυθμίσεις για G27 http://www.racedepartment.com/threads/better-ffb-physics-in-new-updates.103853/page-4#post-2022606

    Λίγο ελαφρύ στο 47% αλλά έχεις πιο γρήγορες αντιδράσεις, το μενού είναι λίγο διαφορετικό στις φωτό, μήπως έχουν κάνει update και δεν ισχύουν?

    Εβαλα και το τελευταίο logi profiler και τα έχω τα 4 πρώτα στο 100 και τσεκαριζμένο το ελατήριο.

  7. Ο Geoff Grammond είναι ο υπεύθυνος που υπάρχουν τα σιμς στα πισι.
    Τα έχω κι εγώ ορίτζιναλ εκτός απ'το πρώτο που είναι αντιγραμμένες δισκέτες απο φίλο που μου το έδειξε πρώτη φορά το 93 και ήταν ο λόγος που πήρα το 1ο πισι.
    Το άλμα έγινε το 96 με το GP2 όπου έμπαινες στη παραμπόλικα με τα 4 και με έλεγχο στο τιμόνι. Είχε όλη η σειρά τρομερή τηλεμετρία που με αυτή έμαθα να σετάρω αυτοκίνητα στα πισι. Επίσης είχε το ωραίο να διαλέξεις όσους οδηγούς ήθελες να τρέξεις στον αγώνα πχ 4 και έπαιζες 2-3 γύρους τον καθένα και ανάλογα πως είχες πάει το καθένα συνέχιζε ΑΙ στο ρυθμό που πήγαινες το καθένα μέχρι να ξανάρθει η σειρά του να το οδηγήσεις.
    Το GP4 το έχω και τώρα στο πισι και ρίχνω καμμιά γύρα που και που.
    Για μένα όλα τα σιμς είναι αντιγραφή του κώδικα του Geoff Grammond έχουν τις ίδιες ιδιότητες στο πως φεύγουν και διορθώνουν.
    Ηταν το rF2 της εποχής του. Με έπιασε νοσταλγία και θα βάλω λίγο GP4 το βράδυ :(

    • Upvote 2
  8. Το κατέβασα το παιχνίδι μετά από 12 ώρες download 19.2GB δεν το έχω δοκιμάσει ακόμα.

    Ψήνομε να πάρω τις ευρωπαικές και αμερικάνικες πίστες από αμάξια δεν έχω αποφασίσει.

    Tatuus F4, Formula Raceroom 2 και GT3 δείχνουν ενδιαφέροντα, γράψτε γνώμες.

    • Upvote 2
  9. Για μένα το AC έχει πολύ δρόμο ακόμα και πιστεύω πώς με την παρουσία του σε PS4 και XBOX1 τραβάει χειρόφρενο στο PC, μακάρι να κάνω λάθος.

    Το μόνο πράγμα που σου μιλάει σε ένα sim είναι το τιμόνι-FFB και το rF2 είναι το καλύτερο, 2ο το Automobilista και 3ο το AC. Δεν έχω δοκιμάσει άλλα.

    Μου έκανε εντύπωση στο RD που δίνουν 8.5 στο AC και 8 στα 10 στο Automobilista, δηλ. το νέο v1.0 Automobilista ισοφαρίζει ή και περνάει το AC?

  10. Την έχω απο εδώ δεν μου αρέσει γιατί σε κάποια κερμπ έχει φυτεμένα λάστιχα για να μην τα πατάς που στη πραγματικότητα δεν υπάρχουν.

    Προτιμώ την v1.2, άλλη διαφορά εκτός απο τις διαφημιστικές ταμπέλες και τα φυτεμένα λάστιχα στα κερμπ δεν είδα.

    • Upvote 1

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